The PowerPole Distribution Project - Revisited July 2004
Another homemade "RigRunner"
by Chad Rudolph, W1CAR
Click here to see the 6-outlet version with 40 amp fuse and 8 gauge wire
Click here to see the 10-outlet version with 40 amp fuse and 8 gauge wire in use in my shack!
The idea here was inspired by WD4BIS. Again, I was looking for a more simplified version that any layman could construct regardless of his or her mechanical inclination.
The basis of this project being as simplified as possible, the parts can all be found at any hardware store and Radio Shack.
See VE1LV's version here
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Parts: 1 - Radio Shack Project Box 270-1801 (3"x2"x1") (other sizes may be used) 2 - 1" copper plumbing straps hammered flat 4 - #5 x 1/2" wood screws or equivalent short piece of #12 copper bare wire (8.5 - 10") 5 Anderson PowerPole assemblies (you can use more or less if desired) #10 Red/Black Zip cord solder
Tools: Tin snips 1/8" metal drill bit cordless drill Dremel rotary tool or equivalent Wire brush bit for Dremel Soldering iron scissors or razor knife wire strippers and cutters PowerPole crimper Phillips screwdriver method of cutting the plastic project box cover (I use a miniature saw blade for the Dremel tool)
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Instructions: After flattening the copper pipe straps with a hammer, cut them to length using the tin snips so that they fit into the project box as shown in the photos. Mark and drill two 1/8" holes in each one right over where the mounting hole is located. Take the rotary tool and wire brush bit and finely polish the straps until they begin to shine. This ensures a good electrical connection when you solder. The straps have become copper buss bars. Now place each buss bar (strap) into the project box and mount each with two #5 screws. IMPORTANT: After threading the screws in half-way, back them out and cut them down to 1/4". This prevents the tips of the screws from popping through the underside of the project box. Carefully thread them back into the box until relatively tight. Complete the PowerPole assemblies using the bare #12 wire...cut into 8 1-1.25" long pieces. Crimp well, and bend the bare wire 90 degrees outward as shown in the photos. Trim as needed.
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Apply some method of holding the group of PowerPole assemblies together,
(I slide a bare scrap piece of #12 through the middle holes in each
assembly)
and carefully solder the bare wire ends to each buss bar. Make sure to
pay attention to polarity, and keep the busses at least 1/4" away from each
other. To be extra certain, place a short length of electrical or
rubber tape between the busses. Also careful not to melt the PowerPole
housing or the project box with the soldering gun. Once the PowerPoles are soldered to each buss, make a small hole on one side of the project box just big enough to slide a 10 gauge zip cord through snugly. Separate the cord, and again paying attention to polarity, solder each cord to its proper buss. Cut a hole in the project box cover just big enough to allow the PowerPoles to extend to the outside. Screw the cover onto the box to complete the assembly. Crimp a set of PowerPoles to the end of the 10 gauge zip cord feeder cable and you're done.
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Done properly, you'll spend about 20 minutes to a half-hour on the bench with this one. Some of the soldering here is sloppy. I'm not the best "solderer" in the world, but I've never had any problem with anything I've ever soldered. This is because I tend to like things that function...making them look perfect sometimes isn't practical. Unlike WD4BIS's design which uses copper-clad circuit board, the bus bars in my version are made of simple 1" copper pipe straps. They are capable of carrying a TON of current. It might be advisable to place an inline fuse on the + side of the feeder cable to be extra careful. You can see pictures of the 6 outlet fused version here, or the 10 outlet fused version here. email me with questions, comments, or smart remarks |
Copyright 2004 W1CAR Chad Rudolph 147300.com
